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Chateau Latour 1998

Wine & Spirits 96/100 Tom Cannavan 93/100 Falstaff 93/100

It has a terrific density of colour: an almost opaque crimson/black, with just a chink of pink on the rim. Very rich, fat and open (decanted two hours) at first, with a big, supple nose of coffee and chocolate, thick cassis fruit and a little dank undergrowth warmth. There is plenty of polished, cedary aroma too. It is pretty massive on the palate: a great, thick slab of meaty, concentrated black fruit with a searing backbone of fine-grained tannins. There is terrific structure, and balancing acidity that is broad and quite generous, but decisive. This has excellent concentration of bittersweet black fruits and fine length too.